Sunrise on the Ganges

This morning Stefano, Cecilia, and I woke up to meet our boatman at 5 a.m. on the steps leading to the river. It was still dark out, but not for long. The sun rose slowly as the city came to life in a way that only Varanasi can. Ghat after ghat was filled with people bathing, praying, meditating, washing clothes, and burning bodies. It was a feast for the eyes... and the camera; I took 145 pictures in 3 1/2 hours! After the ride we got off in Asi Ghat to enjoy some chai before catching a rickshaw back to the ashram. We wandered the streets for a bit, mostly following Stefano as he followed his eyes or nose to this or that food stall, bakery, or shop. He always keeps us laughing with his unbridled enthusiasm. Such a good soul.

Tonight we went back out on the river, this time in a motorized boat, to see the evening arati, an elaborate ceremony involving bells, massive candles, and chanting. We saw Manikarnaka Ghat, the main burning ghat, in full swing. At first I thought that seeing it from a distance was enough, but now I think I'd like to go see it up close. Even though it may seem shocking, it's just the way it is here. Every day, without fail, I have moments when I love this place and moments when I hate it. I keep searching for the perfect analogy for the roller coaster ride of thoughts and emotions it evokes in me, but I cannot find it.


I am kicking myself for not investing in a better zoom lens for this trip, but I think you get the picture. This man is a saddhu, or holy man. There are many of them wandering around the city streets here, dressed in orange and faces painted in some way. After I took his picture he actually waved at us. :)


Indian ladies prepare their offering.


Ahhh... nothing like a hot steaming cup of chai.


Stefano requests I take a picture of him with this cow. :)